The Stevie – Handsome Biscuit
Sometimes we experiment in the kitchen and the results are fvckin amazing. What if every time you chef’d up something new, you ended up blowing minds? David Hausmann of Norfolk, VA’s Handsome Biscuit is close. His homemade sweet potato biscuits paired with toppings that would make even the surliest summabish blush are the talk of the town. From Handsome Biscuit’s website: “We make sweet potato biscuits and then put stuff in between them”. ‘Nuff said.
Their menu reads as a who’s who list of “I gotta buy this shxt RAHT NAH!” proportions:
- Shorty Over Easy Egg & Cheese
- Dill Na Na Potato Onion Frittata and Arugula with Dill Mayo
- Hot Betty Fried Egg with seared greens, garlic and Lupo hot sauce
- PB&JB Peanut Butter, Mixed Berry Jam and Salted Butter
- Hella Fitzgerald Fried Chicken with bacon, cheddar, and red eye sausage gravy (This one is my go-to.)
- Bleu Blazer Fried Chicken with Spicy Pickled Red Cabbage and Blue Cheese dressing
- Mr. Close Love Roasted Pork Shoulder, sweet hot mustard, cucumber
- A.C. Slawter Pulled Pork BBQ, apple coleslaw and Lupo hot sauce
- Boom Chick Boom Chicken salad with blueberries and pecans topped with cukes and pickled fennel
You can add bacon (seriously? That’s automatic.) or a fried egg to any biscuit for a buck, as well as some other additional toppings for the right price. They even have caviar as an option, lè fancì. Add a side or a crafted-in-house drink to complete the meal.
On this trip, I opted for The Stevie, a fried chicken biscuit topped with pickles, whole grain mustard and honey. The first thing that stood out to me is the mellowness of each bite; the chicken was perfectly seasoned but not overly salty like your usual hood chicken spot, the pickles were crisp and snapped with each bite and the mustard was very light. For those not overly familiar with whole grain mustard, it’s in seed form and provides a hint of mustard flavor instead of the overly tangy condiment version most are used to. The honey and sweet potato biscuit pair together sublimely (did I just use that word without wearing a monocle?), laying a foundation of light and sweet for the other members of the Stevie clique to build on.
I can’t say enough about the way this biscuit is crafted. The ingredients seem to have been painstakingly paired together to create a culinary experience, meant to focus your attention on the food instead of getting full. The same can be said about any of the other biscuit offerings I’ve ordered over time. When you can taste the effort put into a product, you know it’s worth revisiting. A huge thanks to David for sharing his culinary vision with the Tidewater area.
2511 Colonial Ave
Park Place – Norfolk, VA 23517
Tues – Sun / 10am – 2pm
The Beer Pairing:
At the suggestion of David, I paired the Stevie with DC Brau’s On The Wings Of Armageddon, a can of bad assery that’ll take you to hell and flip you the bird while the sweet malt & high IBUs ensure you’re mourning the end of your mouthful. Get the accompanying Hypebeerst pairing over on the blog shortly.