Sandwich Spotting Los Angeles ~ the Gogi Hoagie @ the sandwich shop dtla
For decades, the Los Angeles sandwich scene has been dominated by legendary Jewish Delicatessens like Langers, genre inventing establishments like Philippes home of the French Dip, and the “expect wait at least an hour for your Godmother” aka Bay Cities Italian Deli.
Today there is something of a refined carb renaissance thanks to the waining of the Atkins diet craze and the rise of Top Chefs like Michael Voltaggio entering the sammie game. Which brings us to the Sandwich spotting of the day: The Sandwich Shop in downtown, and their house signature sandwich, the Gogi Hoagie.
What seems initially to be a “cheesesteak meets korean barbecue” concept hoagie; this sandwich also gets a dash of Vietnam, via a Bahn Mi style baguette and the some hearty slices of jalapeno. But make no mistake, this sandwich is far from spicy: the bulogi seasoning is overwhelmingly sweet, and the subdued heat from the jalapeno is a welcomed lingering finish. What really excited me about this sandwich was the call to the provolone bullpen. I have had more filling sandwiches for $8.50, but seldom are three distinct flavor profiles at work for a rather compelling rendition of a Philadelphia classic.
Another seldom seen sight at a sandwich joint is a copy of Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc or Michael Ruhlman’s Charcuterie, available for your perusal while your name is being called by the counterman. My final assessment perhaps sits squarely on this noted observation: the sandwich shop is trying something here. There are bigger, cheaper and ultimately better sandwiches out there, but if you long for hoagie artistry, The Sandwich Shop is a work in progress worthy of a visit.
